Author: Easin' Along

We were Easin’ Along on our retirement road trip and had just begun our second week. Our plan had been to spend the weekend in Duluth, MN but we received an email from some friends who encouraged us to stay in Bayfield, WI instead (you gotta love technology). Our friends who, like us, are very active people. To stay active, they spend most of their summers as volunteers in the campgrounds of our National Parks. Their email described a wonderful experience they shared while kayaking on Lake Superior along the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore…a National Park that was new to us. (link here)

Helen (adorable wife) went to work immediately and jumped on Trip Advisor (more technological stuff) and secured a condo for us at the Reiten Boatyard in Bayfield. We later told our friends that we couldn’t thank them enough.

Bayfield, WI (pop. 530) is a charming village about 85 miles northeast of Duluth, MN and sits on the shore of Lake Superior. It is the Gateway to the aforementioned Apostle Islands National Lakeshore and we made plans to explore them the next day.  Other friends had shared their experiences on Madeline Island, a large island in the Apostle group which has many bike trails and beautiful vistas. We hoped to explore that as well, but time constraints would not permit us to make that trip.

Our condo was large and had a deck looking out to Lake Superior and, after unpacking, we sat for a bit before walking to Maggie’s, a restaurant recommended by the desk clerk for Reiten Boatyard. As mentioned in our last post, we had driven from International Falls, MN, hiked around Gooseberry Falls, and walked to Canal Park in Duluth on our way to Bayfield. After all of that, we were ready for a short break. Maggie’s was just the place. We were hungry—so hungry that I forgot to take pictures of our meals as I usually do, but we both ordered a fish dish.  I just remember it being good. We hit the bed and were asleep before the lights went out.

The next morning we walked into the town of Bayfield and purchased tickets on the Apostle Island Cruise Line for the 55 mile Grand Tour.  It was a cloudy and cool morning with the threat of rain and we were both carrying raincoats. We were a little bummed out by this because we had been spoiled by good weather so far on our trip, and this was a day where we really wanted good weather.  We sucked it up and got on board; taking seats on the open top deck…it wasn’t raining yet.

The ship captain came over the PA system and began describing what we were about to see on our voyage. He explained that the Apostle Islands were formed millions of years earlier when huge rivers deposited sand in the area that later cemented into sandstone. Thousands of years ago, glaciers sculpted the sandstone into the beautiful and picturesque cliffs that overlook the shores of Lake Superior.

The Grand Tour followed the route shown on the map pictured here and the captain narrated the entire voyage.

He steered the vessel close to the magnificent rock cliffs as he explained how the waters of Lake Superior created loud booms or “thunder” when driven into the caves by strong winds. He also painted a picture of what winter is like in the Apostle Islands when temperatures drop below 0° F for extended periods and the lake can freeze as much as three feet thick. Ice formations cover the caves and create stunning scenes for the visitors who hike out on the ice to witness them.  After some research, I found an image to show here.

The water is cold even in the summer with surface temperatures in the 50° degree range and in the low 30’s just ten feet below the surface. After hearing that, I gripped the hand rail a little tighter while taking pictures.

Our tour continued as we passed by Stockton Island which has one of the greatest concentrations of black bears in North America. Black bears are found on just about any of the Apostle Islands. At Devils Island we came very close to the shore and almost everyone stood to take pictures.  Several kayakers came near the tour boat–much to the angst of the ship captain. Devils Island also has one of the six lighthouses on the Apostle Islands which is the most found in any National Park in America. After rounding Devils Island we headed back to the port, passing by another lighthouse at Raspberry Island just as the sun came out to greet us. It was a fantastic ending to a lovely morning.

Helen suggested we do a little touring (and shopping) around Bayfield and stretch our legs a bit. The homes here have very detailed architecture on the exterior and I found them quite stunning.  I have posted a picture of the Old Rittenhouse Inn, a 20 room bed and breakfast as the most outstanding example. We also went by the National Park offices to add another stamp to our National Park Passports.  I love doing this, and we have amassed a good collection of stamps on our road trips.

That evening we capped off a great visit to Bayfield by dining at the Fat Radish, a small restaurant that specializes in farm to table food that is produced locally and prepared and served fresh.  They described their style as the “slow food movement”, meaning don’t be in a hurry.  Even with that disclaimer, I didn’t think the service was unnecessarily slow.  Our server, Melissa, was both friendly and helpful with the menu, as well as being fun to chat with.

I went with a small bowl of fish booyah, the Fat Radish version of bouillabaisse.  I’m a big fan of fish stews and this one was out of this world delicious.  For an entrée I chose baked trout with cilantro-lime sauce, and served with spinach-mushroom risotto. This was so good it was dangerous. The fish was fresh and cooked to perfection.  The sauce was perfect as well and the risotto was brimming with flavor. The Fat Radish (link) had served up the best meal I had on this road trip.

Helen started with a House Garden Salad topped with fresh feta cheese and a wine and vinegar dressing. Her entrée was a pan fried whitefish with whipped sweet potato and squash risotto. She said that her meal would be hard equal anywhere.  We passed on desert, even though the selection was tempting, but we did get Melissa to agree to have her picture made with us in front of the restaurant. I had to record this trip to make my friends back home very jealous. She was a great sport about it.

The next morning we packed up Heidi (adorable wife’s car) and took a short walk around a park and marina next to our condo before hitting the road.

Green Bay and the frozen tundra of Lambeau Field were next on the itinerary and it was time to be Easin’ Along.

Our next destination after a warm and fuzzy visit to the “Nations Icebox” in International Falls, MN was going to be a short stopover in Duluth, MN then work our way to Bayfield, WI for a couple of days.

Once again we decided that the most scenic route was the road less traveled, so we pointed Heidi (adorable wife’s car) down Highway 53 which would take us through Voyageurs National Park. Prior to us leaving on our journey through the Heartland we had read an article in our local paper about Voyageurs and felt that if we were close we would have to take it in.  We were close.

Voyageurs is an enormous National Park with 134,000 acres of woodlands, 84,000 acres of water containing 500 islands surrounded by 655 miles of shoreline. This park hugs the Canadian Border.  This area must be where the term North Woods originated. Our drive took us through beautiful expanses of woods and water and enormous fir trees. We made a turn up a side road that led to the Visitor Center at Lake Kabetogama, one of the four lakes inside the park.

When we made that turn we spotted another walleye statue built for picture posing and we couldn’t resist.  Helen (adorable wife) smiled bigly for the camera from behind the walleye statue. That picture is displayed here.

Growing alongside the statue were some very pretty wildflowers and when we reached the Visitor Center we asked the Park Ranger to help us identify them from the picture shown here.  She tried mightily to find the name, but finally gave up, saying that flowers were not her thing.  I hope some of our Easin’ Along readers can come up with it. After walking through the displays at the Center we had to move on.  I have attached a link (here) to the Voyageurs National Park website. I hope you’ll visit both the site and the park during this year as we celebrate the 100^th birthday of the greatest gift Americans have given to ourselves. (See EA link).

Moving on, I was hell bent to get to Duluth, but Helen, in her role as travel guide felt that we needed to stop in Gooseberry Falls State Park for a short hike…Hike! Oh well, we’re just a couple of old retired folks with time on our hands so, why not! Thank you, AAA Guidebook!

Gooseberry Falls State Park sits on the north shore of Lake Superior and attracts visitors year round. On the day we arrived, the parking lot was full as nearby residents were taking advantage of the last few days before the start of school. It was also early leaf season.  We found a spot as a visitor departed, parked and walked through the Visitor Center and on to the falls.

Gooseberry Falls are actually three waterfalls, upper, middle, and lower, and we worked our way to see all three. The falls were pretty and running quite rapidly on this day, but we were told that the water really gets roaring after the spring snowmelt. (See link) I tried my hand at capturing the flow with my camera. Walking back to our car was delightful as we found a path that took us away from the crowds. The fresh air and the woods were invigorating.  I’m glad we took the time. Thanks to AAA. Now we were on to Duluth and some more sightseeing.

The purpose for our stop in Duluth was to visit the waterfront. We had met some travelers on this journey who said that we had to see the Aerial Lift Bridge, one of Duluth’s major landmarks, in Canal Park. We arrived in the later part of the afternoon and parked about five blocks from Canal Park.  It had turned cool, breezy, and cloudy by the time we arrived, but that didn’t seem to hold back the crowds walking the streets. It felt good to walk (again).

The Aerial Lift Bridge was built so that the entire bridge platform could be raised some 135 feet to allow tall ships to pass under it. The bridge spans 390 feet and was completed in 1930.  We were hopeful that we could see it being raised, and our luck was good this day.  Within minutes of arriving at Canal Park, a ship passed under the raised bridge on its way to Lake Superior. This was a fun experience and we high fived each other for our fortunate timing.

We made a slow walk back to the car along the busy street composed of shops, bars, and attractions. Young twin boys were having a big time in one of the street side fountains. I wanted a picture of them but it was tough catching them still long enough for my camera, but I managed.  They were a handsome pair.    

 

At one shop, Helen decided that she needed a break. I caught her in the lap of a big silly moose on the loose. She managed to break away…

 

 

 

Bayfield, WI and the Apostle Islands are next on the itinerary and they are a few hours away…time for us to be Easin’ Along.

We’re just a couple of retired folks Easin’ Along on the second week of our trip through the Heartland. We had crossed over the border from North Dakota into Minnesota and were driving on Highway 11 a few miles south of the Canadian border. Our destination was International Falls, and our route was taking us through some beautiful small Minnesota towns like Greenbush, Badger, Warroad, and Beaudette. As I wrote last week, these small towns are both charming and inviting. 

At Beaudette we paused long enough to ask some men towing fishing boats to take our picture in front of a forty foot statue of Willie the Walleye. This huge symbol of walleye country was a backdrop impossible to resist.  Willie looked familiar, and I’m certain that I have seen it featured in a television commercial in the past, though I can’t remember when.  The fishermen politely agreed. I returned the favor using their camera. According to signs in the area, Willie recently turned fifty. He doesn’t look it. We traveled on…

International Falls, MN proudly identifies itself as the “Icebox of the Nation”.  The average daily temperature in January is 2° and the record low temperature is -55°. For most of my adult life our local weather forecasters have used the frigid winter temperatures of International Falls as the benchmark for cold winter days. They probably felt that by telling us that it was another sub-zero day there, we would feel better. Well, when we planned our trip, I felt we had to visit the nation’s icebox. We arrived on a beautiful late summer day with temperatures in the mid 70’s.

We also arrived to a very fortunate and unexpected surprise because there was a Bass fishing tournament and a festival taking place in town that weekend.  I always say, it is better to be lucky than good. Helen (adorable wife) and I couldn’t wait to participate in the festival activities.

When we booked our room a few weeks prior we were somewhat puzzled that rooms were hard to come by, but International Falls is a small town (pop. 6,424) and a large bass tournament can fill up the rooms available. We must have reserved the last room available at the Hilltop Motel. We checked in to our small room and grumbled a little. The room was clean, but we have been spoiled by the spacious rooms we were used to on military bases. We didn’t need to unpack much, so we got back into Heidi (adorable wife’s car) and drove to the Chocolate Moose at the suggestion of the motel owner. I think everyone had received the same suggestion. There was a ten minute wait and bass fishermen were standing in line at the door.

Once again our luck was good.  Most of the waiting customers were in large groups waiting on large tables and, being a party of two, we were seated quickly at a booth. Our waitress seemed a bit frazzled, but she was making a good effort to be pleasant.  She gave the boys at the next table a big smile as they signaled for more beer. We ordered as soon as she returned with five mugs and a coffee for the guys.

Even though I had ordered walleye in Grand Forks, ND the night before, but I was now in the heart of walleye country and I couldn’t resist a second serving. With one glance at the menu, I gave our waitress an order for walleye with a side of fries, promising to get back on the diet at home.  Helen ordered a walleye and shrimp combo with a wild rice blend. I doubt that the shrimp came from a Minnesota lake, but Helen said it was good. The fish was fresh and out of this world good. I have pictures of both meals below. It was time to walk off the dinner so we made our way into the town for festival fun.

I love festivals. The original idea for Easin’ Along was to make a journey across the country with destinations planned around fairs, festivals, and food because there is no better way to sample a regions identity. I still hang on to the idea, but in the meantime, I was eager to see what this festival has to offer. 

City officials had blocked off the streets around the festival so we parked a few blocks away.  It felt good to walk and take a peek at the old buildings of this quaint small town. I took a picture of the county office building before we walked onto the festival ground. Most of the attendees were gathered in small groups, some seated at picnic tables, enjoying each other’s company.  There was a crowd gathered around a booth serving cheese curds. I wanted to try them, but was still stuffed with walleye…maybe later.

As festivals go, this one was rather quiet, and quite pleasant on a lovely evening.  I suppose that most of the bass fisherman were in bed getting some rest before a big day on nearby Rainy Lake.  There were some portable tents set up along the edge of the festival area and we walked through them looking for things to buy.  We resisted the temptation, but shopping for anything is still fun. After about an hour we decided to take a cue from the fishermen and call it a night.

Up and at it early the next morning, we treated ourselves to breakfast at Sandy’s Place where I enjoyed version eggs Benedict smothered with biscuit gravy (what diet?). Helen had a small order of pancakes. Sandy was a hard working restaurant owner and kept our coffee cups filled. When we left I noticed that she also sold baked goods and I ordered two enormous molasses cookies for the road (no more diet jokes!). They turned out to be splendid.

We were going to return to the festival grounds, but decided to walk some of the downtown area first. Frostbite Finds, a consignment store, was our first stop.  Finding nothing that drew us, we next went to Bob’s at the Border, a souvenir shop.  The owner was a nice person and we asked her if she stayed open all year. She responded immediately that there was “no way”…too cold. She let us know that she would be closing at the end of September and wintering over in a warmer clime. Bob’s would re-open in the spring. Signs at the door indicated that Bob’s was for sale.

After leaving Bob’s, Helen walked over to the street next to the border crossing between International Falls and Canada for a quick picture.  We would have crossed but all that gravy for breakfast made me too lazy to walk back to the car for my passport. We went to the festival grounds.

The day’s offering at the festival began with an antique car show.  I was delighted because among the beautiful automobiles were at least three 1955 Chevrolets and one 1956 model. I once owned a 1955 and made one of the biggest mistakes of my life when I traded it for a 1963 Ford Falcon. I still kick myself. These beauties made me so envious that I used up the battery on my camera taking pictures of them.   My favorite was a burgundy and chrome model.  Helen loved the blue one. See them all in the Picture Gallery (click here) along with a picture of Smokey Bear we had taken before we left the grounds.

It was time to load up Heidi and move toward Duluth, Minnesota and Bayfield, Wisconsin, but we wanted to make a quick pass through a local antique shop before we left. It took us a couple of detours to arrive at the store with a garage full of very interesting items.  I was looking for a few souvenir thimbles for my collection and Helen was searching for some Vaseline glass.  We found both with the assistance of Mr. Albertson, the shopkeeper. He drove a hard bargain, but, in the end, the prices seemed fair. And Mr. Albertson was a good natured soul and, even though he cast out a crusty personality, he was agreeable to having his picture taken with Helen and her purchase. I could browse in that shop for hours…

Fish, a festival, food, and a lot of fun sure helps make this retirement gig a glorious experience. We left the Nation’s Icebox feeling all warm and fuzzy, completely fulfilled and grateful for the experience. We know how blessed we are to be Easin’  Along.