Posted in Fundamentals

Tranquility Base

Bald River – Cherokee National Forest

Helen and I just returned from a three-month, 8,400-mile, RV trip that still provides us with wonderful memories of incredible places, delightful people, and over-the-top food. We’re grateful for the experience and feel so blessed that we had the opportunity to do something that we talked about and dreamed about for so long. Hopefully, much more of the same is in our future. Nevertheless, once home and the daily routines re-established, it didn’t take long until I felt the pull of the place I call my Tranquility Base, a name I borrowed from the astronauts that walked the moon’s surface.

Camping in Cherokee National Forest

The mountains and streams of the Cherokee National Forest near Tellico Plains, Tennessee have had a grip on me ever since my first camping trip there on my 30th birthday. To this day, I still can’t believe it took me that long to discover a place so peaceful and so beautiful, but I suppose the reason is that the entrance to the Great Smoky Mountain National Park is close to where I grew up therefore, I spent time there in my youth.

We had only been home for about two weeks when I felt the tug. Although we had just spent three months in a laid-back state of mind and hiking in the mountains of Arizona and Utah, I couldn’t help myself.  I needed a mountain fix of a different kind. Using the excuse that I needed to explore the campgrounds for a site big enough for Lucy, our fifth-wheel that is larger than our previous trailers, I took off on the first morning I had a chance. The truth is that I needed to reassure myself that a place so dear to me had not disappeared in my absence.  Silly, I know, but I had to find out.

Tellico Plains is a little more than an hour’s drive south of my home, and I could drive there blindfolded, I’m certain. The town sits on the edge of the National Forest. Less than two minutes from the center of this small town, the Tellico River, flowing out of the mountains, meets the side of the road.  It is at that point where tranquility takes over: peace and calm reign supreme. I treasure every inch of the drive along that river to Big Oak Cove campground some 20 miles away.

Tellico River

I always roll down the windows so that I can hear the river roar as it cascades over the rocks. Filtered sunlight makes its way to the surface of the river in places, permitting a peek of the smooth stones beneath the clear water. Occasionally, a trout will create small ripples as it grazes through the latest hatch in search of a small meal.

A few miles along the road, I stop to join other visitors taking pictures of Bald River Falls, a waterfall that I have shared with readers several times. Recent rains have provided the river above the falls plenty of water to delight all of us with a camera. A cool mist drifts away from the falling water.

Bald River Falls – Cherokee National Forest

Driving on, I leave the River Road to follow North River, a smaller stream leading to North River Campground, the site of my first visit over forty years ago.  I camped there with the Appalachian Anglers Society, a group passionate about fly fishing for Rainbow and Brook trout both here and in the National Park.  There were about fifty fellow Anglers at my first camping experience. The number of campers has varied over the years, but the experience is always the same…pure fun in one of the most beautiful places on the planet. On this visit, there were three empty campsites and I feel sure that Lucy could fit in one of the two in front of the stream. Success!

Trout fisherman – Tellico River

I spent the rest of the afternoon visiting other campgrounds along the river.  As usual, there were more campsites than campers.  Selfishly, I remain hopeful that this slice of heaven remains a well-kept secret, but I fear that the word is getting out. I trust that readers will keep that secret between us friends.

I end most visits to Tellico with a stop at the trout hatchery to watch the huge trout swim in the long runs of water diverted from the river. A visit there is especially fun at feeding time when hundreds of brightly colored trout splash madly at food pellets thrown by a hatchery employee. I didn’t stop on this visit, time was fleeting, but I did see a Ranger release trout into the River as part of the stocking program. I made a note of the location.

View from Waucheesi Bald

Being short on time also prevented me from driving to the Bald at the top of Waucheesi Mountain, another favorite.  When our children were young, we would camp at Holly Flats Campground at the base of the mountain and drive to the Bald at night to watch shooting stars streak across the sky. I loved hearing them “Ooh” and “Ahh” as a star flashed across their view. The drive down the dark mountain always put them to sleep.

Although I could have stayed for a week, the time had come to turn around and follow the River back to Tellico Plains and then on to Knoxville. As I always do, I insert my John Denver, Live CD into the player and sing along, accompanied by the roar of the River.  This tradition began with the cassette version of the album that I would use to torture my children with my singing on our earlier camping trips. A CD replaced the cassette, but my singing has not improved. My apologies to Mr. Denver, but “Thank God I’m a Country Boy” always triggers an urge to sing.  I calm down for “Annie’s Song” but still vocalize every word, loudly.

Tranquility Base…something everyone should have. The Apollo 11 astronauts had theirs, and I’m Easin’ Along in mine. Where’s yours?

Freddie at the Falls

Posted in Fun

Five Stops on the Road Home

Cherokee Casino, Roland,OK (click to enlarge any photo)

Eventually, all good things must come to an end, including our trip to the desert southwest and points in between. Reluctantly, we said goodbye to our friends in Colorado and pointed Butch eastward with Lucy in tow to begin a slow trip towards home. Initially, our plans called for a trip to Colorado Springs and visiting some friends there while camping at the Air Force Academy. Time was getting away from us however, and our granddaughters were coming to attend Vacation Bible School at our church. We wanted to arrive in plenty of time to get ready for their visit.

In the time since we began RVing, I have often thought about committing to it full-time.  I’m fairly certain that I would be happy as a full-timer because I love visiting new places and because there is so much to see in our country. Nevertheless, Helen and I both love our home and being near family, our friends, our church, as well as the lakes and mountains around Knoxville. Once home, we have the opportunity to regroup for a while, then begin to plan the next trip.  In this way we always have something to look forward to whereas, a full-time commitment might become routine after a while, but who knows, our thinking may change at some point. For now, homeward it is after an incredible three-month journey.

First Stop – Albuquerque, NM

Albuquerque in the distance

From Cortez, we drove south along US 491 to Gallup, NM then traveled east on Interstate 40, a direct route to Knoxville, stopping first in Albuquerque, NM.  We hoped to stay for one night at the FamCamp on Kirtland, Air Force Base, but that can be tricky because this campground doesn’t take reservations. We called the camp office on the morning we left Cortez and were told that, for the moment, there were five spaces available. That was a risk worth taking.  We stayed at Kirtland once before in our first trip west in Sherman, a rented RV, and enjoyed our stay there greatly.  Above, is a picture from that trip taken from the top of Sandia Mountain. On this visit, we didn’t even unhook Lucy.  We opened the slide-outs and went to bed.

Amarillo, Texas

Oasis RV Resort (note the wind in the trees)

As is my usual practice, I try to stay under four hours driving time from one stop to the next, and Amarillo, Texas is almost exactly four hours from Kirtland AFB. We found Oasis RV Park through RV Trip Wizard and made a reservation for one night.  Oasis RV Park is about a half-mile from I-40 and had good ratings so, we jumped on it.  When we arrived, the sky was looking rather ominous which can be a daunting thing for RV owners in flat country, but thankfully this storm moved north and out of harm’s way for us—and for Lucy. For a second night, we slept well.

Stormy sky over Amarillo
Lawton, Oklahoma and Ft. Sill
Lake Elmer Thomas Campground near Ft. Sill

After a couple of one-nighters, it was time to to take a break from the road so we made reservations for two nights at Medicine Creek Campground on the Army base at Ft. Sill, Oklahoma. The drive from Amarillo was three hours and we arrived rather early in the day.  I was looking forward to unhooking Lucy and settling in for a full day and a half of no driving.  When we arrived at the entry to Ft. Sill and asked for directions to the campground, the young soldier at the gate instructed us to drive to the Lake Elmer Lewis Campground, 12 miles from post, rather than Medicine Creek.  Not knowing the difference, we made the trip to Lake Elmer Thomas, a delightful campground open to both military and civilian campers. Unfortunately, a young camp hostess turned us away and redirected us back to Ft. Sill and Medicine Creek. Medicine Creek only has six campsites, but very nice.  We were one of only three campers in this very quiet setting.

Medicine Creek, Ft. Sill

Roland, Oklahoma

Happy Camper

Two very restful nights later, we again returned to I-40 heading toward Ft. Smith, Arkansas. We received an email while at Ft. Sill canceling our reservation at a campground in Ft. Smith due to flooding along nearby Arkansas River. Helen did some research but could not locate another campground near Ft. Smith, but did find a Casino Hotel in Roland, Oklahoma just west of there (picture at top). We decided that we would park Lucy for the night and get a room in the hotel.  When making the reservation, Helen asked if there was ample parking for our RV.  The clerk replied that there was an RV campground adjacent to the hotel with full hookups—free of charge. Once again, luck was with us, but it didn’t carry into the night.  Eventually, the Casino gobbled the equivalent of a full night’s rent. The next morning, we discovered a Kildeer sitting on a nest behind Lucy.

Kildeer guarding her nest behind Lucy

Millington, TN Naval Support Activity

Midway RV Park, Millington, TN

We drove away from Roland, OK to witness thousands of acres of flooded farmland near Ft. Smith. We couldn’t help but feel for the farmers who probably lost a corn crop for this year. For this leg of the trip we pushed the envelope a bit and drove for over five hours to reach the Navy Support Activity at Millington, TN, just north of Memphis. Once again, we would stop for two nights to rest up a bit, and to spend an evening with some old friends from the University of Tennessee and fraternity brothers as well.  Becky, our hostess and a dear person really went all out to make us feel welcome. We had such a wonderful time, I forgot to take pictures.  The campground at Millington is very nice–even the deer love it.

Deer in the campground

Home

I broke with precedent once more and drove over seven hours to reach home.  Helen was anxious to unwind a bit and prepare for our granddaughters and I was eager to get Lucy unloaded and cleaned up. Our pace of life picked up immediately.  In addition to some time with our precious granddaughters, we had medical and dental visits that we postponed while we were gone. A leak in the water line to our refrigerator needed repair as did a faulty air conditioner. Our yard (as small as it is) awaited our attention. Mail needed sorting.

I suppose that an increase in activity is not unexpected after three months and over 8400 miles away from home. I admit that, more than once, the laid-back lifestyle of RV living came to mind. Maybe I’ll re-think that commitment to full-time RVing. Retirement does have its advantages.

I love our life…and just Easin’ Along.

Posted in Fun

Cortez, Colorado and the Cliff Dwellers of Mesa Verde National Park

Cortez, Colorado farmland (click to enlarge any picture)

From Moab, Utah we drove about 2 ½ hours to Cortez, Colorado in the Four Corners area.  Helen and I were very excited because we would visit Mesa Verde National Park, but we would also meet up with Paul and Dayna, longtime and dear friends from our Army days in Germany in the early 1970s who live in the area. Another couple, Rod and Sally, also from those days, was flying in to join us. We couldn’t get there fast enough.

Paul (left), Rod

Cortez, a city of about 8,000 residents sits at an elevation of 6,100 feet above sea level. As we drove in, clouds formed and rain, possibly show showers as well, were in the weather forecast. We managed to avoid all of that and pulled into Paul and Dayna’s driveway where Paul and Rod came out to greet us.  Paul, now a rancher, directed us to pull Lucy (trailer) over to one side of the driveway where, amazingly, he had full RV hookups, including 50 amp power and a sewer connection.  Perfect!

After getting Lucy situated, we joined Dayna and Sally in Paul and Dayna’s lovely home. Readers may remember that we introduced everyone to Rod and Sally several years ago, when we visited them at their summer home in Minnesota (link here), but we had not been with Paul and Dayna since the late 1970s. Although we managed to stay in touch over the years, the six of us had a lot of catching up to do over the next two days and our conversation lasted long into the evening.

Point Lookout, Mesa Verde National Park

The plan for the next day was for Helen and me to join Rod and Sally on a tour of Mesa Verde National Park. Snow fell as we drove to the Park Visitor Center to buy tour tickets and continued as we rode the bus along the face of Point Lookout to begin the tour. We passed a small herd of deer beside the road—the snow didn’t seem to bother them very much. Our tour began on a cliff overlooking the elaborate cliff dwellings on the opposite side of the canyon.

Deer in a snow shower

The Ancestral Pueblo people moved into this region around 600 AD and lived there for the next 700 years before scattering to New Mexico and other regions of the Four Corners around 1300 AD. The early inhabitants lived on the mesa tops in pit homes covered by a wood roof structure for around 200 years. Next, they began building above-ground homes composed of wooden poles covered in mud and plaster. By around 1150 AD, the Ancestral Puebloans began constructing elaborate stone homes in alcoves within the cliffs.  It is those homes that we came to see, and they are fascinating.

The Balcony House – Mesa Verde National Park

From our stops across the canyon, we had great views of several cliff dwellings that we would visit later. These structures resembled stone palaces and some extended three stories high. Some structures have one room only, and some have up to several hundred rooms and probably served as an early form of a community center. For perspective, our tour guide reminded us that the Ancestral Pueblo built the cliff dwellings around the same time as Europeans built the Cathedral at Notre Dame, and long before Europeans came to America.

Cliff Palace – Mesa Verde National Park

The tour guide, a Park Ranger and a descendant of the Pueblo, led us down the cliff steps to the Cliff Palace, the largest and most elaborate of the Cliff Dwellings. Once there, he gave us an enlightening lecture about the life and work of the inhabitants.  Much is unknown about the people who lived there except that they farmed the mesa tops and were excellent basket weavers and potters. Most of the homes contained several families and some of the rooms were used to store grain and other food after drying.

Tour guide

By 1300 AD, the Ancestral Puebloans left Mesa Verde.  No one knows why, although most feel that a severe drought precipitated the move. Some believe that the Puebloans departed suddenly because of the tools, pottery, baskets, and other relics of the civilization left behind in the cliff dwellings.  Those relics and the dwellings remained largely untouched until the late 1800s when discovered by livestock farmers allowed to graze their herds on the Native American lands.

Down the cliff
Up the cliff

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eventually the area became the Mesa Verde National Park to preserve the Ancestral Puebloan history and culture. There are some 600 cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde and 4500 archeological sites. I recommend this visit to anyone looking to increase their knowledge of prehistoric America. Our tour lasted about three hours, but time flew by and before we knew it, the time came to climb back up the cliff and return to the bus.

Antique Corral

The rest of our trip was spent enjoying the company of our friends and visiting the charming community of Cortez.  The sky cleared and we enjoyed the lush farms and the scenery below the San Juan mountains. Paul was kind enough to take us to the Antique Corral to do some browsing.  It is so hard for Helen and me to pass up an antique store or flea market.

That afternoon, Paul gave me a tour of his ranch that included a trip down to his fish pond to feed the trout that he raises there. His dog Piper ran ahead of us and had a ball watching the fish as they chase the food tossed into the pond. Numerous photo opportunities existed all around.  Some of them are shared here.

Paul and Piper
The farm and the flag

Reluctantly, the time came to Ease Along down the road. Rod and Sally left early. Helen and I lingered for a while, the morning was so beautiful and the snow-capped mountains had us entranced. By now, we have driven over 7,000 miles on our RV trip, and this visit is the highlight so far. We send our sincere thanks to Paul and Dayna for hosting us and the huge effort they made to make us feel welcome.  Thanks also to Rod and Sally for taking the time to join us and make the experience even better.

Rod, Sally, Dayna, Paul, Helen

Retirement is the best gig going — time to be Easin’ Along.

Snow-capped San Juan Mountains