When Helen and I planned our trip to the west coast, we eagerly looked forward to one of the early destinations—our three nights in New Orleans! Although Charleston, SC, has replaced the “Big Easy” as my favorite destination, I remain very fond of this great American city and its fantastic food. Our visit would be short, but we intended to sample a few of our favorite menu items during our stay. First, however, let me catch everyone up.
Our trip began on January 12th. We made it out of Knoxville in cold temperatures and snow on the way. Before we left town, Helen was so concerned that all the blooms on her camellia would freeze that she cut them off to make a bouquet for Dora, our fifth-wheel. Her camellias have never been so productive.
As we usually do when we drive south, we spent the first night at Maxwell Air Force Base in Montgomery, Alabama. The drive took about five hours, and we made it with no problem. The first day of every road trip always wears me out. After an early dinner, it’s lights out.
We rolled into Gulfport, MS, the next day to spend three nights at the campground on the Navy Base there. There were two items on the agenda. First, Helen likes to spend the first full day of a trip reorganizing the pantry and the closets in the trailer and cleaning the floors. This task usually doesn’t take long, and I’ve learned that I should stay away. I worked on the second agenda item.
While in Montgomery, we discovered damage to the outer dome of one of our skylights. A tree limb probably decided to smack our skylight—hard! I’m not sure how it happened. We had a brief hailstorm in Knoxville a few weeks ago, which could have caused the damage, but, more likely, this happened sometime during our trip to Charleston and Edisto Beach.
I called the campground in Gulfport as soon as we discovered the problem to see if they could recommend an excellent mobile RV repair business. The manager recommended Dave’s Mobile RV Repair, a great suggestion. I contacted Dave and gave him the size of the skylight. Fortunately, he had one in stock and time for us on his schedule. Someone would drive out to us the next day.
Justin, the repairman, met me at the gate to the Navy Base, and I signed him in with the sentry on duty. He showed us a pair of replacement domes, and Helen (the picky one) made her selection. Justin climbed the ladder to the roof, attacked the repair, and completed the job in under an hour. We thanked him for his work and for coming out to us so quickly. Rain was in the forecast for later that night which would have been bad for our trailer without the dome. The sunset over the campground was a nice one.
The weather warmed up nicely for us, and we made plans to explore the city early the next day. New Orleans is only about an hour and a half to the west of Gulfport, which meant we could take our time driving to Ponchartrain Lake RV Resort. We were assigned a lovely campsite overlooking the lake.
Plans don’t always work out. We felt lazy the following day and didn’t leave the campground until after 10 am. I found a parking place on Decatur Street, and we walked through the French Quarter to see what had changed since our last visit…thankfully, nothing.
Satisfied that New Orleans is still New Orleans, we walked to Acme Oyster House, always our first stop. A line formed in front of the door, but we volunteered to sit at the bar (my preference). The doorman escorted us inside immediately. Helen and I love fresh oysters on the half-shell, and they don’t come any better than in New Orleans. We split a dozen, served by an amiable waiter. These oysters were large, fresh, tasty, and soon devoured.
For our second course, Helen ordered a crab and corn bisque. I, the gumbo lover, ordered the Acme gumbo. Helen loved the bisque, and although I make a great gumbo, I can’t top Acme’s gumbo. The roux is thick, the shrimp taste fresh, and there is just enough spice to make it savory. I could have eaten two bowls… a fabulous treat for our first full day.
We weren’t as lazy the next day because the plan was to drive to the French Market for beignets and chicory coffee at Café Du Monde. After parking the truck, anticipation increased during the short walk to the Café under a bright morning sun. We arrived as a jazz band opened and trombone music wafted gently over the open-air dining area. We both ordered large chicory and three beignets. Again, it’s great that some things never change.
Helen and I walked off the beignets around the French Market, going up and down both sides of Decatur. Helen spotted a purple stocking cap in one of the shops near the market that we decided would come in handy in the cooler weather we expected in Texas. It fit, and she had a new addition to the travel wardrobe. Here’s the picture.
Most would think that the last thing we needed was another meal, but this is New Orleans. Satisfied that we had walked off the beignets, we drove to a small deli recommended by my nephew, Domilise’s Po’Boy and Bar. We had it confirmed by several of our friends and New Orleans residents that this is THE place for Po’Boy sandwiches. A crowded parking lot assured us that the food had to be good. The exterior was underwhelming and very understated.
I ordered a fully dressed Oyster Po’Boy and Helen ordered a half Shrimp half Oyster Po’Boy. Great food takes time to prepare. While we waited patiently for these babies to come out of the laboratory, I bought a Domilise’s T-shirt. I watched as each sandwich was prepared on fresh bread and smothered with a zingy dressing. Both wrapped tightly and bagged (we ordered take-out).
Once we arrived at Dora, we each ate half of our Po’Boy and saved the other half for dinner. They were as good as promised and another special treat. Now we have a new reason to return.
A lovely sunrise greeted us the following day and, having eaten our way across the city, it was time to be Easin’ Along. Please join us next week!
What fun! I’m jealous!
Good morning!
Fun is what New Orleans was made for! We had a great time!
You and Helen are in my area! I grew up in Baton Rouge and my Dad was born in NOLA. My grandfather worked at the Acme. You hit all the good spots! Hopefully I can get there again when this virus goes away! Thanks for the memories! Safe travels!!!
Good morning, Jo Ann,
Anyone who worked at the Acme has to be good people. New Orleans was very strict about mask safety. Always required indoors. Nevertheless, we had a lot of fun. Thanks for checking in! Joe
Love this post mainly because New Orleans will always be a favorite city of ours. I grew up about 45 minutes away in a small tow called Hahnville, and trips to the Big Easy were highly anticipated!
Thanks for tips on eateries. Never enough time for us to revisit old faves and take on new ones, but we give it our best. We did, however, note on our last trip this past fall that waiters didn’t serve us beignets on plates at Cafe du Monde. We stood in a take-out line. Oh, we’ll. The yummy little dough balls tasted great anyway, and I left covered in powdered sugar!
Trave safely.
Rusha Sams
Rusha,
There’s a lot to love here! Cafe Du Monde is still serving at the take-out window. Beignets are bagged and coffee is in a styro cup. I did miss the plates and the mugs. Thankfully, the beignets are still the same and came out HOT! Love it. We added Domilise’s Po’Boy & Bar to our list of favorites. So good! Thanks for stopping by! Joe
I loved Acme but personally think Felix across the street has better Gumbo. I dont think I could go there without a visit to Commanders Palace, although it is expensive . Hope you stop at some of the small restaurants north of the NOLA area in the middle of rural LA. Just check out the small buildings next to the gas stations . Some surprising excellence in the Cajun food world.
I remember Felix for good gumbo, but it was closed for remodeling, so we’ll save it for next trip! Not enough time (or cash) for Commander’s, but Domilise’s was a big surprise in a small building! We’re Easin’ our way across Texas now. Stay with us! Joe
What a great beginning to another fun adventure. I can almost taste the yummy food in NO!!!
Cammy,
You turned me on to the Po’Boy. I still owe you! Stay warm up there! We miss ya’! Joe
And now I’m hunger LOL! That city sure knows how to cook.
Geez, that skylight sure was busted up. At one point, we had a cracked skylight that we white ducted tape for about four years. Once a year, we’d replace the tape. Worked great until the plastic started cracking from the AZ sun. She’s all new now.
Hi, Ingrid,
I would eat in New Orleans even if I wasn’t hungry! You’re right–they know how to cook! I would have Flex-taped the skylight if I couldn’t get it replaced, but we lucked out and found one in Gulfport. We’re slowly working our way west. We’ll talk soon. Bring out the good weather for us!
Joe, I can’t think of a better town to eat your way through. I’ll take two of everything please! Love Helen’s purple hat. I needed it this morning when we left Palmetto Bluff. It was 33!
Hello, Suzanne,
Two of everything is not out of the question. Thankfully, common sense prevailed, or we would have to leave town in a cargo container. Helen will be glad to know you liked the hat. She needed an extra layer–morning temperatures were in the 30’s. I hope you’re having fun despite the cold.
Joe, your travels and ours seem to be connected in unusual and intriguing ways. When you posted about fly fishing on Henry’s Fork in Idaho back in September, Alan and I had just left a USFS campsite on Henry’s Fork the day before. What were the chances, right? The day this post about NOLA went live, I was perusing the Louisiana state travel guide, and writing down the addresses of Cafe Du Monde and Cafe Beignet while planning our loop tour of the southern states. Can’t wait to see what the next quirky connection will be! By the way, I’m thinking that Helen and I would get along quite well. If I’m remembering correctly, this is the second time you’ve used the adjective “picky” to describe your lovely wife, and picky is my middle name. Travel safely, you two!
Good morning, Mary,
I’ve always heard that great minds think alike. That phrase probably applies to travel planers as well. If you’re coming to New Orleans, the Lake Ponchartrain RV Resort is a convenient campground for exploring the city, but your research may turn up something better. Nevertheless, you can’t go wrong by beginning your day at Cafe Du Monde–love the beignets. I’m sure you and Helen would find a lot in common, but “picky” as it applies to her is an understatement ;-).! Have a great week! Joe
I enjoy the details of your trips, Joe! First off, those camellias are gorgeous–they would grow in January in Sacramento as well. I’m always impressed you have the military RV spots in which to camp, I’m sure they are clean and well-tended. Those mobile RV services are so important and what a great business these days! New Orleans looks and sounds amazing and glad to read you really enjoyed yourselves. Enjoy your continuing travels!
Hi, Terri,
I just jumped off your blog–very good! We had a bumper crop of Camellias this winter and told the neighbors to pick away while we were gone. Military campgrounds are an awesome benefit for military retirees. They are inexpensive, well maintained, and well-guarded, which we appreciate. We use them whenever possible, but have to make reservations well in advance. Thanks for stopping by! Stay warm up there! Joe
You guys definitely started your trip off right with a stop in New Orleans! We love the city, the music, and the food. In fact, I was recently thinking about maybe going to the French Quarter Festival in 2023. We’ve been twice and would love to return! Want to meet us there? 🙂
You look so happy with that gorgeous platter of oysters. And Helen looks beautiful in her new purple hat.
Happy travels and adventuring!
Laurel,
French Quarter Festival–hmmm–very tempting! We both love New Orleans and April is a great time to visit. We’ll certainly give it some thought. Fresh raw oysters always bring a smile to my face…gumbo too! Thanks for checking in! Give Magnolia a treat for me! Joe
Ah, the travel and the food in your post look absolutely amazing. Like Suzanne, I’ll take two of everything! Thank you for taking us along with you!
Good morning, Donna,
When I think of travel, the first thing that comes to mind is food and drink, and New Orleans serves up both in spades. Pat O’Brien’s was closed so we missed out on their famous Hurricane Cocktails, but we’ll be back. Nevertheless, we savored our beignets and gumbo. So glad you joined us! Joe
Great review as usual, retired journalist and various other talents, Mr Joe! I shared this trip report with Nancy and we agreed that you and Helen had a great time! The places we visited were very similar, except the deli that you got the inside scoop about. I remember one day when we were walking back from the French Market area from a visit there and disappointed that we arrived too late for the fresh beignets at Cafe Du Monde, we walked into a local restaurant that served them. Being familiar with CDMs’ great taste, we found that places fare almost as good! Since we haven’t been back in several years, I can’t recall the name and not certain that they are still there, but I do recall it was located only about two blocks from the business district street, same street that the Saint’s stadium is located. Thanks for your sharing and stirring up my fond memories! We will be looking at your Texas update also and curious where you were, since Nancy has relatives in the Houston area (northwest suburb) and a maid of honor is in Ft, Worth. Blessings brother!
Hello, Dan,
Fortunately, we made it to Cafe Du Monde when the beignets were fresh and HOT! The deli is in the Garden District. At first glance, it didn’t look like much, but we weren’t there to look at it. The Po’Boys were awesome! Our trek across Texas was uneventful, with stops in Beaumont, San Antonio (Fort Sam Houston), and Van Horn, a tiny town of barely 2,000 residents. Nevertheless, Texas is an interesting state. We might have explored a bit more, but the weather was frigid, and we had football to watch. Now we’re in Las Cruces, NM. Going to venture out tomorrow and find some good Mexican food! Thanks for checking in. Give Nancy our best. Joe
I’ve never been to New Orleans so it was fun to read about the delicious food. That would be the first thing I would check out. How interesting there are campspots at military bases. Unfortunately we are not veterans so that’s out. We are headed to the place in Napa you recommended next month. Thanks for the RV tips.
Good morning, Christina,
You owe yourself a trip to New Orleans if you’re a “Foodie.” Great food and great fun! Military campgrounds are an excellent benefit for active and retired servicemen and women. We use them as much as possible, but getting in can sometimes be a tough ticket. We’re hoping to secure a spot at Luke AFB in Phoenix this weekend. Enjoy your time in Napa. If you plan to visit some of the wineries, be sure and call ahead for reservations. Thanks so much for stopping by! Joe